A short tourist guide to Thailand today, post-pandemic, with tips on where to go and what to eat.
See also our guide : Preparing your trip to Thailand: the complete guide
It's hard to say who was more bored during the pandemic standoff: travellers pining for Thailand's beautiful coastlines and bustling cities, or locals, like this tuk-tuk driver, whose eyes filled with relief at the first sight of foreigners ready to stimulate a thirsty economy.
Now that the restrictions have been eased, tourists are once again turning their eyes to their beloved Thailand.
While you won't see the crowds the country once hosted, you will see a country that is recovering in more ways than one.
You'll also see a few more masks, like the jewelled statues of Yaksha guardians at work protecting the people, but behind them is always the famous Thai smile, squinting with kindness.

Masked Yaksha guardian statues at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok.Photo: Varuth Hirunyatheb
Here you'll find shocking cliffs jutting vertically out of the ocean, giant flowers floating on turquoise waters and temples nestled in the jungle atop mountains, glittering with gold and towering spires.
The country's street food is just as incredible as the Michelin-starred cuisine, with spices refreshed by coconut milk and tinged with an acidic touch of lemongrass.
Festivals range from the lighting of lanterns in the temples to full moon party on remote islands.
The babies langur monkeys climb up the branches to stand in front of you, watching you with an adorable tilted head.
The Thai massagesThese are practised everywhere from temples to deserted sandy shores, relieving tension from jungle treks and neck muscles aching from grateful bows.
And millions of Buddhas (some covered in real gold) watch over it all.
See also : The incredible story of the Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit in Bangkok
Here's where to go, what to see and what to eat once you land in Thailand.
Menu
Enjoy Bangkok's mouth-watering markets, luxury hotels and vibrant nightlife

Icon Siam shopping centre in Bangkok. Photo: Icon Siam Mandarin Oriental
Eliminate your jet lag from 3am to BangkokThe capital of the country is as busy at night as it is during the day.
With night markets, the vast Chatuchak weekend marketfloating markets and wonderland-like shopping malls such as theIconsiamBangkok's largest shopping mall, you're bound to buy something in Bangkok, whether it's a fried scorpion, a mini singing bowl or an extremely affordable item of clothing.
Although you'll see temples wedged between skyscrapers in every other neighborhood, take a temple tour along the river to see the bigger ones like the Emerald Buddha Temple at the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Pho.
The street food is incredible just about anywhere there's a local crowd, but you might want to risk the queue at Jay Fai's for its spectacularly cheap, Michelin-starred dishes like the crab omelette.
Another Michelin-recognized casual dining establishment is Somtum DerThe restaurant serves Isaan cuisine, the northeast of Thailand, with chicken so crispy that the skin almost looks like a candied apple crust, and a spicy papaya salad to clear your tear ducts.
For a nice restaurant sitting next to the temples, Supanniga Eating Room serves the recipes of the owner's grandmother, giving impressive presentations to local Thai dishes.
Shredded coconut, grated orange, dried pork and peanuts wrapped in betel leaf fill your mouth with an unexpectedly sweet and tangy juice, balanced by the crunchy ingredients.
And the house blend of blue tea with mint and butterfly peas (also known as anchan) is caffeine-free, which means you can drink carafes of it to beat the Bangkok heat without feeling nervous.
If your starting destination in Thailand is the capital, there's no better place to spend your first night, and indeed all subsequent nights, than at the Capella Bangkok, whose rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies (some with their own Jacuzzi) overlooking the Chao Phraya River.
Considered one of the top five hotels in the world, this boutique resort offers an incredible on-site spa, a restaurant created by three-star Michelin chef Mauro Colagreco, sunset cocktails and evening cultural classes in the lounge.
The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkokalso located along the river, has been an icon of the city for almost 150 years.
The old-style Bamboo Bar is worth a visit for its classic cocktails and live jazz and blues music.
For a more designer hotel with a lively nightlife, book a room at Standard, Bangkok MahanakhonThis includes two high-rise restaurants and the city's highest outdoor rooftop bar, Sky Beach.
You can also stay in a hotel along the very touristy Khaosan Road or sleep under the stars at the Bangkok Tree HouseBut if you have the opportunity to splurge, even if it's just for one night, this is the place to do it.
Get lost in Chiang Mai's stunning natural landscape

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple in Chiang Mai. Photo: Father150
If you came to Thailand for the jungle temples, Chiang Mai is what you are looking for.
Essentially the capital of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai is a paradise for art, shopping, cooking classes, hill tribes and mountain trekking.
The nearest and most impressive temples are Doi Suthep temple and Wat Pha Lat, accessible by taxi or by a 30-45 minute hike on the Monk's Trail (which, as the name suggests, is used by monks).
Doi Inthanon is not far away either and offers stunning views of the surrounding mountainous landscape.
There are many excursions just beyond the city, such as river kayaking in the jungle or lantern-lit tours of deep caves, which can be booked through Chiang Mai Mountain Biking & Kayaks.
You can also go to Thai Akha cooking schoolwhere an Akha chef, an indigenous South East Asian tribe, will teach you to prepare 11 traditional Thai and Akha dishes, including a curry of your choice and glutinous rice with mango (which is a bit too addictive).
Don't worry, dog meat, which is traditionally eaten by the Akha, is not on the menu.
See also : The Akha, mountain people of Thailand
If you want to sample the cuisine of four different Thai regions in one restaurant, go to Ging GraiThe most notable dishes and drinks are the spicy popcorn, bubble tea mocktails and the owner's father's rice vermicelli recipe with pineapple, lemongrass shavings, dried shrimp and a drizzle of coconut milk on top.
Alternatively, you can opt for a more casual option and indulge in the favourite street food of American celebrity chef, Anthony Bourdain, served by the cowboy-hatted lady at Khao Kha Moo Chang Phueak.
Take a seat at the 137 Pillars HouseYou will sleep in a single house made of teak wood in the Nord-Lanna style.
The son of Anna Leonowens, the famous guardian of King Mongkut's 82 children (who inspired the film 'Anna and the King'), built the building and lived here for a time while working for a teakwood company, which used up to 20 elephants to transport goods.
Now owned by Thailand, the hotel partners with an ethical elephant rescue sanctuary that guests can visit or donate to, and offers some of the most sustainable initiatives in the city.
The on-site restaurant also offers the most succulent of Khao Soy (chicken in coconut broth topped with crispy noodles) and spoonable meats, as well as cashew and condensed milk ice cream served directly in a coconut, so you can eat the flesh that lines the inside of the shell.
The hotel also produces its own natural mosquito repellent, which works wonders.
Dive into the serene beaches of Krabi

Tourists lounging on Railay beach in Krabi.
Do yourself a favour:
Rather than going to PhuketThe city is overrun by tourists, so take a short hop from island to island. Krabi.
With its cascading hot springs, ocean cliffs and island beaches, Krabi is what Hollywood aspires to when it comes to 'paradise'.
Boats take you from almost every pier for kayaking trips through the mangroves, cave expeditions, snorkelling or to the beach at Koh Phi Phi and other nearby islands.
You can also hike overland to the emerald pools and hot springs or climb the 1,260 steep steps to the huge mountain-top seated Buddha at Tiger Cave Temple, which takes about 30 minutes and a lot of sweat, but is well worth it for the incredible views.
Railay and Phra Nang beaches are considered some of the most beautiful in the world (with famous cliffs for climbing), so you might as well stay at the Rayavadee Hotel, right in the middle of both.
To get there, you need to take a boat, which the resort organises at the same time as the airport pick-up.
Guests stay in their own individual huts, many of which have a private infinity pool inside their bamboo fences.
Otherwise, the warm ocean is right there, and you'll find a spa, tennis courts, wild macaques and other monkeys roaming the property.
Among the many seaside restaurants, The Grotto is the most remarkable, as you can dine in a cave next to the waves.
While eating a sea bass wrapped in a banana leaf or strips of wagyu beef with truffle aioli, you can watch a stunningly beautiful sunset while burying your toes in the sand under your table.
See also : What to see and do in Krabi, top 12 most popular activities
Explore the ancient ruins, majestic temples and floating markets of Ayutthaya

Buddha head between the roots at Wat Phra Mahathat in Ayutthaya.
You really should also take a trip back in time on theAyutthayaThis UNESCO World Heritage site was once the royal capital of Siam.
The capital was replaced by Bangkok in 1782, and the country changed its name from Siam to Thailand, which means 'land of freedom'.
But Ayutthaya has retained all its ruins, the colourful Bang Pa-in Palace and a dozen wats, or temples.
Among the most famous are Wat Chaiwatthanaram, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Mahathat, which dates from the 1300s and has a stone Buddha head nestled in a banyan tree.
Ayutthaya is about an hour from Bangkok and can be reached by a scenic train ride, while admiring rural fields, a winding river and country houses along the way (there are also fresh pineapples and other refreshments on board).
You can also take a slightly slower, but cheaper, route by public minibus.
Some tour guides also offer private day trips from Bangkok, with transport to and from your hotel and meals included.
You can also take a boat trip between the two cities.
Surrounded by a river, Ayutthaya is home to a floating market, many long-tailed boats and the family museum of Thai boats.
With its colourful neighbourhoods and lively night market, you may want to stay longer than just one day.
Step back in time in Kanchanaburi

Bridge over the River Kwai in Kanchanaburi. Photo: Pinit Ton
Waterfalls, floating houses and a World War II railway are the main attractions of Kanchanaburilocated two hours from Bangkok.
The waterfalls and caves are located in the Erawan National ParkSrinagarindra National Park and Sai Yok Yai National Park.
The highlight is perhaps Erawan, where the waterfalls have seven levels and stretch in length like a cascading river, with turquoise pools between the levels.
You can hike up to each level, surrounded by monkeys.
If the animal aspect of this last sentence excites you, go and see Elephants Worldan ethical non-profit organisation that helps rescued elephants, rather than riding them or using them for entertainment.
And also the Ganesha park held by French people.
In Kanchanaburi town, the River Kwai is charming, with restaurants and hotels along the banks.
But many people go directly to the bridge over the river to cross it on foot or on horseback on the famous 'Death Railway'.
The railway is a sort of memorial to World War II, as thousands of locals and foreign POWs died to build it, as part of the Japanese battle plans in neighbouring Burma.
You can pay your respects at the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and learn about the history of night-time torchlight work at the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum.
You can also take the train itself, which overlooks the jungle and runs along the cliffs.
Continue your journey back in time by visiting the ruins of Prasat Muang Singh.
You can also see dragons at Wat Ban Tham, or climb up to Wat Tham Sua, then down and up another nearby peak at Wat Tham Khao Noi.
Speaking of floating, be sure to stay in a raft house while in Kanchanaburi, as there are many in this area, including The FloatHouse River Kwai.
Source: Thrillist